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1 Kay, John
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2 Kay (of Bury), John
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. 16 July 1704 Walmersley, near Bury, Lancashire, Englandd. 1779 France[br]English inventor of the flying shuttle.[br]John Kay was the youngest of five sons of a yeoman farmer of Walmersley, near Bury, Lancashire, who died before his birth. John was apprenticed to a reedmaker, and just before he was 21 he married a daughter of John Hall of Bury and carried on his trade in that town until 1733. It is possible that his first patent, taken out in 1730, was connected with this business because it was for an engine that made mohair thread for tailors and twisted and dressed thread; such thread could have been used to bind up the reeds used in looms. He also improved the reeds by making them from metal instead of cane strips so they lasted much longer and could be made to be much finer. His next patent in 1733, was a double one. One part of it was for a batting machine to remove dust from wool by beating it with sticks, but the patent is better known for its description of the flying shuttle. Kay placed boxes to receive the shuttle at either end of the reed or sley. Across the open top of these boxes was a metal rod along which a picking peg could slide and drive the shuttle out across the loom. The pegs at each end were connected by strings to a stick that was held in the right hand of the weaver and which jerked the shuttle out of the box. The shuttle had wheels to make it "fly" across the warp more easily, and ran on a shuttle race to support and guide it. Not only was weaving speeded up, but the weaver could produce broader cloth without any aid from a second person. This invention was later adapted for the power loom. Kay moved to Colchester and entered into partnership with a baymaker named Solomon Smith and a year later was joined by William Carter of Ballingdon, Essex. His shuttle was received with considerable hostility in both Lancashire and Essex, but it was probably more his charge of 15 shillings a year for its use that roused the antagonism. From 1737 he was much involved with lawsuits to try and protect his patent, particularly the part that specified the method of winding the thread onto a fixed bobbin in the shuttle. In 1738 Kay patented a windmill for working pumps and an improved chain pump, but neither of these seems to have been successful. In 1745, with Joseph Stell of Keighley, he patented a narrow fabric loom that could be worked by power; this type may have been employed by Gartside in Manchester soon afterwards. It was probably through failure to protect his patent rights that Kay moved to France, where he arrived penniless in 1747. He went to the Dutch firm of Daniel Scalongne, woollen manufacturers, in Abbeville. The company helped him to apply for a French patent for his shuttle, but Kay wanted the exorbitant sum of £10,000. There was much discussion and eventually Kay set up a workshop in Paris, where he received a pension of 2,500 livres. However, he was to face the same problems as in England with weavers copying his shuttle without permission. In 1754 he produced two machines for making card clothing: one pierced holes in the leather, while the other cut and sharpened the wires. These were later improved by his son, Robert Kay. Kay returned to England briefly, but was back in France in 1758. He was involved with machines to card both cotton and wool and tried again to obtain support from the French Government. He was still involved with developing textile machines in 1779, when he was 75, but he must have died soon afterwards. As an inventor Kay was a genius of the first rank, but he was vain, obstinate and suspicious and was destitute of business qualities.[br]Bibliography1730, British patent no. 515 (machine for making mohair thread). 1733, British patent no. 542 (batting machine and flying shuttle). 1738, British patent no. 561 (pump windmill and chain pump). 1745, with Joseph Stell, British patent no. 612 (power loom).Further ReadingB.Woodcroft, 1863, Brief Biographies of Inventors or Machines for the Manufacture of Textile Fabrics, London.J.Lord, 1903, Memoir of John Kay, (a more accurate account).Descriptions of his inventions may be found in A.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London; R.L. Hills, 1970, Power in theIndustrial Revolution, Manchester; and C.Singer (ed.), 1957, A History ofTechnology, Vol. III, Oxford: Clarendon Press. The most important record, however, is in A.P.Wadsworth and J. de L. Mann, 1931, The Cotton Trade and IndustrialLancashire, Manchester.RLH -
3 Kay (of Warrington), John
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. c.1770 England[br]English clockmaker who helped Richard Arkwright to construct his spinning machine.[br]John Kay was a clockmaker of Warrington. He moved to Leigh, where he helped Thomas Highs to construct his spinning machine, but lack of success made them abandon their attempts. Kay first met Richard Arkwright in March 1767 and six months later was persuaded by Arkwright to make one or more models of the roller spinning machine he had built under Highs's supervision. Kay went with Arkwright to Preston, where they continued working on the machine. Kay also went with Arkwright when he moved to Nottingham. It was around this time that he entered into an agreement with Arkwright to serve him for twenty-one years and was bound not to disclose any details of the machines. Presumably Kay helped to set up the first spinning machines at Arkwright's Nottingham mill as well as at Cromford. Despite their agreement, he seems to have left after about five years and may have disclosed the secret of Arkwright's crank and comb on the carding engine to others. Kay was later to give evidence against Arkwright during the trial of his patent in 1785.[br]Further ReadingR.S.Fitton, 1989, The Arkwrights, Spinners of Fortune, Manchester (the most detailed account of Kay's connections with Arkwright and his evidence during the later patent trials).A.P.Wadsworth and J. de L.Mann, 1931, The Cotton Trade and Industrial Lancashire, Manchester (mentions Kay's association with Arkwright).RLHBiographical history of technology > Kay (of Warrington), John
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4 Kay, Robert
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. probably before 1747d. 1801 Bury, Lancashire, England[br]English inventor of the drop box, whereby shuttles with different wefts could be stored and selected when needed.[br]Little is known about the early life of Robert Kay except that he may have moved to France with his father, John Kay of Bury in 1747 but must have returned to England and their home town of Bury soon after. He may have been involved with his father in the production of a machine for making the wire covering for hand cards to prepare cotton for spinning. However, John Aikin, writing in 1795, implies that this was a recent invention. Kay's machine could pierce the holes in the leather backing, cut off a length of wire, bend it and insert it through the holes, row after row, in one operation by a person turning a shaft. The machine preserved in the Science Museum, in London's South Kensington, is more likely to be one of Robert's machine than his father's, for Robert carried on business as a cardmaker in Bury from 1791 until his death in 1801. The flying shuttle, invented by his father, does not seem to have been much used by weavers of cotton until Robert invented the drop box in 1760. Instead of a single box at the end of the sley, Robert usually put two, but sometimes three or four, one above another; the boxes could be raised or lowered. Shuttles with either different colours or different types of weft could be put in the boxes and the weaver could select any one by manipulating levers with the left hand while working the picking stick with the right to drive the appropriate shuttle across the loom. Since the selection could be made without the weaver having to pick up a shuttle and place it in the lath, this invention helped to speed up weaving, especially of multi-coloured checks, which formed a large part of the Lancashire output.Between 1760 and 1763 Robert Kay may have written a pamphlet describing the invention of the flying shuttle and the attack on his father, pointing out how much his father had suffered and that there had been no redress. In February 1764 he brought to the notice of the Society of Arts an improvement he had made to the flying shuttle by substituting brass for wood, which enabled a larger spool to be carried.[br]Further ReadingA.P.Wadsworth and J. de L.Mann, 1931, The Cotton Trade and Industrial Lancashire, Manchester.A.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London; and R.L.Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester (for details about the drop box).RLH -
5 Diggle, Squire
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. c.1845 England[br]English inventor of a mechanized drop box for shuttles on power looms.[br]Robert Kay improved his father John's flying shuttle by inventing the drop box, in which up to four shuttles could be stored one below the other. The weaver's left hand controlled levers and catches to raise or lower the drop box in order to bring the appropriate shuttle into line with the shuttle race on the slay. The shuttle could then be driven across the loom, leaving its particular type or colour of weft. On the earliest power looms of Edmund Cartwright in 1785, and for many years later, it was possible to use only one shuttle. In 1845 Squire Diggle of Bury, Lancashire, took out a patent for mechanizing the drop box so that different types or colours of weft could be woven without the weaver attending to the shuttles. He used an endless chain on which plates of different heights could be fixed to raise the boxes to the required height; later this would be operated by either the dobby or Jacquard pattern-selecting mechanisms. He took out further patents for improvements to looms. One, in 1854, was for taking up the cloth with a positive motion. Two more, in 1858, improved his drop box mechanism: the first was for actually operating the drop box, while the second was for tappet chains which operated the timing for raising the boxes.[br]Bibliography1845, British patent no. 10,462 (mechanized drop box). 1854, British patent no. 1,100 (positive uptake of cloth) 1858, British patent no. 2,297 (improved drop-box operation). 1858, British patent no. 2,704 (tappet chains).Further ReadingA.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London (provides drawings of Diggle's invention).C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History of Technology, Vol. IV, Oxford: Clarendon Press.See also: Kay, JohnRLH -
6 Textiles
See also: INDEX BY SUBJECT AREA[br]Dore, Samuel GriswoldHeilmann, JosuéLevers, JohnLister, Samuel CunliffeMa JunSong Yingxing -
7 CULTURE, LITERATURE, AND LANGUAGE
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Dictionary of Brazilian Literature. Westport, Conn.: Greenwood, 1988.■ TRAVEL AND TOURIST GUIDES ON PORTUGAL■ Ballard, Sam, and Jane Ballard. Pousadas of Portugal: Unique Lodgings in State-owned Castles, Palaces, Mansions and Hotels. Boston: Harvard Common, 1986.■ Bridge, Ann, and Susan Lowndes Marques. The Selective Traveller in Portugal. London: Chatto & Windus, 1968.■ Ellingham, Mark, et al. Portugal: The Rough Guide. London: Rough Guides, 2008 ed.■ Hogg, Anthony. Travellers' Portugal. London: Solo Mio, 1983.■ Kite, Cynthia, and Ralph Kite. Portuguese Country Inns & Pousadas. New York: Warner Books; Karen Brown's Country Inn Series, 1988.■ Lowndes, Susan, ed. Fodor's Portugal 1991. New York: Fodor's, 1990.■ Proença Raúl, and Sant'anna Dionísio, eds. Guía De Portugal. I. Generalidades. Lisboa E, Arredores. Lisbon: Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian, 1924; 1983.■ Robertson, Ian. Portugal: Blue Guide. London: Benn; New York: Norton, 2000 and later eds.■ Stoop, Anne de. Living in Portugal. 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Portugal's Secret Jews: The End of an Era. Rumford, R.I.: Peregrinação Publications, 1999. Diffie, Bailey W. Prelude to Empire: Portugal Overseas before Henry the Navigator. Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 1960. Dutra, Francis A. "Portugal: To 1279." Dictionary of the Middle Ages. Vol. X: 35-48. New York: Scribners, 1987.■. "Portugal: 1279-1481." Dictionary of the Middle Ages. Vol. X: 48-56. New York: Scribners, 1987. Gama Barros, Henrique de. História de Administração Pública em Portugal nos séculos XII à XV, 11 vols. Lisbon, 1945-51. Godinho, Vitorino Magalhães. A Economia dos Descobrimentos Henriquinos. Lisbon, 1962.■ Gonzaga de Azevedo, Luís. História de Portugal, 6 vols. Lisbon, 1939-44.■ Herculano, Alexandre. História de Portugal, 8 vols., 9th ed. Lisbon, 1940.■ Kennedy, Hugh. Muslim Spain and Portugal: A Political History of al-Anda-lus. London: Longman, 1996.■ Lencastre e Tavora, Luía Gonzaga. O Estudo da Sigilografia Medieval Portuguesa. Lisbon, 1990.■ Livermore, H. V. 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Os descobrimentos e a problemática cultural do Século XVI, 2nd ed. Lisbon, 1982.■ Disney, Anthony, and Emily Booth, eds. Vasco Da Gama and the Linking of Europe and Asia. New Delhi: Oxford University Press, 2000.■ Godinho, Vitorino Magalhães, ed. Documentos sobre a expansão portuguesa [ to 1460], 3 vols. Lisbon, 1945-54.■ Guedes, Max, and Gerald Lombardi, eds. Portugal. Brazil: The Age of Atlantic Discoveries. Lisbon: Bertrand; Milan: Ricci; Brazilian Culture Foundation, 1990. [Catalogue of New York Public Library Exhibit, Summer 1990]■ Harley, J. B., and David Woodward. The History of Cartography. Volume 1: Cartography in Prehistoric, Ancient and Medieval Europe and Mediterranean. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1987.■ Leite, Duarte. História dos Descobrimentos: Colectânea de esparsos, 2 vols. Lisbon, 1958-61.■ Ley, Charles. Portuguese Voyages, 1498-1663. London: Dent, 1953.■ Marques, J. Martins da Silva. Descobrimentos portugueses, 2 vols. Lisbon, 1944-71.■ Martyn, John R. C., ed. Pedro Nunes ( 1502-1578): His Lost Algebra and Other Discoveries. John R. C. Martyn, trans. New York: Peter Lang, 1996.■ Morison, Samuel Eliot. The European Discovery of America: The Northern Voyages, A. D. 500-1600. New York: Oxford University Press, 1971.■. Portuguese Voyages to America in the Fifteenth Century. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1974.■ Mota, Avelino Teixeira da. Mar, Além-Mar-Estudos e Ensaios de História e Geografia. Lisbon, 1972.■ Nemésio, Vitorino. Vida e Obra do Infante D. Henrique. Lisbon, 1959.■ Parry, J. H. The Discovery of the Sea. New York: Dial, 1974.■ Penrose, Boies. Travel and Discovery in the Renaissance, 1420-1620. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1952.■ Peres, Damião. História dos Descobrimentos Portugueses. Oporto, 1943.■ Prestage, Edgar. The Portuguese Pioneers. London, 1933; New York: Barnes & Noble, 1967.■ Rogers, Francis M. Precision Astrolabe: Portuguese Navigators and Transoceanic Aviation. Lisbon, 1971.■ Seary, E. R. 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Picchio, Luciana Stegagno. Storia del Teatro Portoghese. Rome: Edizinio deli' Ateneo, 1964.■ Queirós, José. Cerâmica Portuguesa, 2 vols. 2nd rev. ed. Lisbon, 1948.■ Santos, Luís Reis. Monuments of Portugal. Lisbon, 1940.■ Santos, Reinaldo dos. A Escultura em Portugal, 2 vols. Lisbon, 1948-50.■. História da Arte em Portugal. Oporto, 1953.■ Sasportes, José. História da Dança em Portugal. Lisbon, 1970. Simões, J. M. dos Santos. "Azulejos in a Land of Many Colours." Connoisseur (London) CXXXVII, 551 (1956): 15-21.■. Azulejaria em Portugal no Século X VIII. Lisbon, 1979.■ Smith, Robert C. A Talha em Portugal. Lisbon, 1963.■. The Art of Portugal, 1500-1800. London, Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1968.■. "The Building of Mafra." Apollo 97, 134 (April 1973): 360-67.■ Stoop, Anne de. Demeures portugaises dans les environs de Lisbonne. Paris: Weber, 1986.■. Palais et manoirs: Le Minho. Paris: Ed. du Seuil, 1995.■ Tannock, Michael. Portuguese 20th Century Artists: A Biographical Dictionary. 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Brother Luiz de Sousa [play]. Edgar Prestage, trans. London: Elkin Mathess, 1909.■. Travels in My Homeland. John M. Parker, trans. London: Peter Owen and UNESCO, 1987. Griffin, Jonathan. Camões: Some Poems Translated from the Portuguese by Jonathan Griffin. London: Menard Press, 1976. Jorge, Lídia. The Murmuring Coast. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 1995.■ Lisboa, Eugénio, ed. Portuguese Short Fiction. Manchester, U.K.: Carcanet, 1997.■ Lopes, Fernão. The English in Portugal 1367-87: Extracts from the Chronicles of Dom Fernando and Dom João. Derek W. Lomax and R. J. Oakley, eds. and trans. Warminster, U.K.: Aris & Phillips, 1988.■ Macedo, Helder, ed. Contemporary Portuguese Poetry: An Anthology in English. Helder Macedo, et al., trans. Manchester, U.K.: Carcanet New Press, 1978.■ Martins, J. P. De Oliveira. A History of Iberian Civilization. Aubrey F. G. Bell, trans.; preface by Salvador de Madariaga. New York: Cooper Square, 1969.■ Mendes Pinto, Fernão. The Travels of Mendes Pinto [Orig. title: Peregrinação].■ Rebecca D. Catz, trans., with introduction and notes. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1989. Miguéis, José Rodrigues. A Man Smiles at Death with Half a Face. George■ Monteiro, trans. Hanover, N.H.: University Press of New England, 1991.■. Happy Easter. John Byrne, trans. Manchester, U.K.: Carcanet, 1995.■. Steerage and Ten Other Stories. George Monteiro, ed. Providence, R.I.: Gávea-Brown, 1998. Monteiro, Luís De Sttau. The Rules of the Game. Ann Stevens, trans. London: Hamilton, 1965.■ Mourão-Ferreira, David. Lucky in Love. Christine Robinson, trans. Manchester, U.K.: Carcanet, 1999. Namora, Fernando. Field of Fate. Dorothy Ball, trans. London: Macmillan, 1970.■. Mountain Doctor. Dorothy Ball, trans. London: Macmillan, 1956.■ Nemésio, Vitorino. Inclement Weather over the Channel. Francisco Cota Fagundes, trans. Providence, R.I.: Gávea-Brown, 1993.■. Stormy Isles: An Azorean Tale. Francisco C. Fagundes, trans. 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New York: Harcourt, 2000.■. Journey to Portugal. New York: Harcourt Brace, 2001.■ Sena, Jorge de. The Poetry of Jorge de Sena: A Bilingual Selection. Frederick G. Williams et al., trans. Santa Barbara, Calif.: Mudborn Press, 1980.■. By the Rivers of Babylon and Other Stories. New Brunswick, N.J.: Rutgers University Press, 1989.■ Vicente, Gil. Four Plays of Gil Vicente: Edited from the Editio Princeps ( 1562). Aubrey F. G. Bell, ed. and trans. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1920.■. Lyrics of Gil Vicente. Aubrey F. G. Bell, trans. Oxford: Oxford University Press, Hispanic Notes and Monographs, Portuguese Series 1, 1921.■. The Play of Rubena. Jack E. Tomlins, trans.; Rene P. Garay and José I. Suarez, eds. New York: National Hispanic Foundation for Humanities, 1993.■. The Boat Plays. David Johnston, trans. and adaptation. London: Oberon, 1996.■. Three Discovery Plays. Anthony Lappin, trans. Warminster, U.K.: Aris & Phillips, 1997.■ Vieira, António. Dust Thou Art. Rev. W. Anderson, trans. London, 1882.■ Portuguese and Portuguese-American Cooking: Cuisine■ Anderson, Jean. Food of Portugal. New York: Hearst, 1994. Asselin, E. Donald. A Portuguese-American Cookbook. Rutland, Vt.: Charles E. Tuttle, 1966.■ Bourne, Ursula. Portuguese Cookery. Harmondsworth, U.K.: Penguin, 1973. Crato, Maria Helena Tavares. Cozinha Portuguesa I, II. Lisbon: Editorial Presença, 1978.■ Dienhart, Miriam, and Anne Emerson, ed. Cooking in Portugal. Cascais: American Women of Lisbon, 1978.■ Feibleman, Peter S. The Cooking of Spain and Portugal. New York: Time-Life Books; Foods of the World, 1969.■ Koehler, Margaret H. Recipes from the Portuguese of Provincetown. Riverside, Conn.: Chatham Press, 1973. Manjny, Maite. The Home Book of Portuguese Cookery. London: Faber & Faber, 1974.■ Marques, Susan Lowndes. Good Food from Spain and Portugal. London: Muller, 1956.■ Modesto, Maria de Lourdes. Cozinha Tradicional Portuguesa. Lisbon: Verbo, 1982.■ Ortiz, Elisabeth Lambert. The Food of Spain and Portugal. The Complete Iberian Cuisine. New York: Atheneum, 1989. Pinto, Elvira. La Bonne Cuisine Portugaise. Paris: Edicions Garanciere, 1985.■ Robertson, Carol. Portuguese Cooking: The Authentic and Robust Cuisine of Portugal. Berkeley Calif.: North Atlantic, 1993. Schmaeling, Tony. The Cooking of Spain and Portugal. Ware, U.K.: Omega, 1983.■ Vieira, Édite. The Taste of Portugal. London: Robinson, 1989.■ Von Treskow, Maria. Zü Gast in Portugal: Eine Kulnarische Reise in Garten Europas. Weingarten: Kunstverlag, 1989. Wright, Carol. Portuguese Food. London: Dent, 1969.■. Self-catering in Portugal: Making the Most of Local Food and Drink. London: Croom Helm, 1986.■ Afonso, Simonetta Luz, and Angela Delaforce. Palace of Queluz— The Gardens. Lisbon, 1989.■ Araújo, Iluídio Alves de. Arte Paisagista e Arte das Jardins em Portugal. Lisbon, 1962.■ Azeredo, Francisco de. Casas Senhoriais Portuguesas. Barcelos, 1986.■ Binney, Marcus. Country Manors of Portugal. New York: Scala Books, 1987.■ Bowe, Patrick, and Nicolas Sapieha. Gardens of Portugal. New York: Scala Books and Harper and Row, 1989.■ Cane, Florence du. The Flowers and Gardens of Madeira. London, 1924.■ Cardoso, Pedro Homem, and Helder Carita. Da Grandeza das Jardins em Portugal. Lisbon, 1987.■ Carita, Helder, and Homem Cardoso. Portuguese Gardens. London: Antique Collector's Club, 1987.■ Costa, António da, and Luís de O. Franquinho. Madeira: Plantas e Floras. Funchal, 1986.■ Nichols, Rose Standish. Spanish and Portuguese Gardens. Boston, 1926.■ Pereira, Arthur D. Sintra and Its Farm Manors. Sintra, 1983.■ Sampaio, Gonçalo. Flora Portuguesa. Lisbon, 1946.■ Sitwell, Sacheverell. Portugal and Madeira. London: Batsford, 1945.■ Underwood, John, and Pat Underwood. Landscapes of Madeira. London, 1980.■ Vieira, Rui. Flowers of Madeira. Funchal, 1973.■ Viterbo, Francisco Marques de Sousa. A Jardinagem em Portugal, 2 vols. Coimbra, 1906-9.■ Education, Science, Health, and Medical History■ Albuquerque, Luís de. Estudos de História, 3 vols. Coimbra, 1973-81.■. Ciência e experiência nos Descobrimentos portugueses. Lisbon, 1983.■. Para a História de Ciência em Portugal. Lisbon, 1983.■. As Navegaçoes E A Sua Projecção Na Ciência E Na Cultura. Lisbon, 1987.■ Baião, Antônio. Episódios Dramáticos da Inquisição Portuguesa, 3 vols. Lisbon, 1936-55.■ Cabreira, Antônio. Portugal nos mares e nas ciências. Lisbon, 1929. Carvalho, Rômulo de. A Astronomia em Portugal (séc. xviii). Lisbon, 1985. Fernandes, Barahona. Egas Moniz: Pioneiro de descobrimentos médicos. Lisbon, 1983.■ Gaitonde, P. D. Portuguese Pioneers in India: Spotlight on Medicine. London: Sangam Books, 1983.■ Hanson, Carl A. "Portuguese Cosmology in the Late Seventeenth Century." In Benjamin F. Taggie and Richard W. Clement, eds., Iberia & the Mediterranean, 75-85. Warrensburg: Central Missouri State University, 1989.■ Higgins, Michael H., and Charles F. S. de Winton. Survey of Education in Portugal. London, 1942.■ Hirsch, Elizabeth Feist. Damião de Góis: The Life and Thought of a Portuguese Humanist. The Hague, 1967.■ Lemos, Maximiano. Arquivos de História da Medicina Portuguesa. Several vols. Lisbon, 1886-1923. Vol. I. História da Medicina em Portugal. Doutrina e Instituições. Lisbon, 1899.■ Mira, Matias Ferreira de. História da Medicina Portuguesa. Lisbon, 1948.■ Orta, Garcia de. Colóquios dos Simples e Drogas e Cousas Medicinais da India. Conde de Ficalho, ed., 2 vols. Lisbon, 1891-95.■ Osório, J. Pereira. História e Desenvolvimento da Ciência em Portugal, 2 vols. Lisbon, 1986-89.■ Pina, Luís de. "Uma prioridade portuguesa do século XVI. João de Barros e a Dactiloscópia Oriental." Arquivo da Repartição de Antropologia Criminal IV (1936).■. "As Ciências na História do Império Colonial Português — Séculos XV a XIX." Anais de Faculdade de Ciências do Porto ( 1939-10).■. "Os Portugueses Mestres de Ciência e Metras no Estrangeiro." Actas do Congresso do Mundo Português. Lisbon, 1940.■. "A Ciência em Portugal (bosquejo Histórico)." In Secretariado Nacional da Informação, ed., Portugal: Breviário Da Pátria Para Os Portugueses Ausentes, 277-301. Lisbon, 1946.■ Richards, Robert A. C., ed. Guide to World Science: Vol. 9: Spain and Portugal, 2nd ed. Guernsey, U.K.: F. H. Books, 1974.■ Saraiva, António José. História da Cultura em Portugal, 3 vols. Lisbon, 1950-62.■ ———. "João de Barros." In Serrao, ed., Dicionário de História de Portugal 1 (1963): 307-8.■ Silvestre Ribeiro, José. História dos Establecimentos Scientíficos, Literários e Artísticos de Portugal nos Successivos Reinados da Monarchia, 3 vols. Lisbon, 1871-83.■ Veiga-Pires, J. A., and Ronald G. Grainger, eds. Pioneers in Angiography: The Portuguese School ofAngiography. Lancaster, U.K.: MTP Press, 1982.■ Walker, Timothy. "Doctors, Folk Medicine and the Inquisition: The Repression of Popular Healing in Portugal during the Enlightenment Era." Ph.D. dissertation, History Department, Boston University, 2001.■ Barbosa, Madelena. "Women in Portugal." Women's Studies International Quarterly 4 (1981): 477-80.■ Barreno, Maria Isabel, Maria Teresa Horta, and Maria Velho da Costa. Novas Cartas Portuguesas. Lisbon, 1972.■ ———. The Three Marias. New Portuguese Letters. Helen R. Lane, trans. New York: Doubleday, 1975.■ Brettell, Caroline B. We Have Already Cried Many Tears: The Stories of Three Portuguese Migrant Women. Cambridge, Mass.: Schenkman, 1982.■ Ferreira, Virginia. "Engendering Portugal: Social Change, State Politics, and Women's Social Mobilization." In António Costa Pinto, ed., Modern Portugal, 162-88. Palo Alto, Calif.: SPOSS, 1998.■ Goodwin, Mary. "Portuguese Feminism." Portuguese Studies Newsletter 17 (Spring-Summer 1987): 12-13.■ Lamas, Maria. As Mulheres do Meu País. Lisbon, 1948.■ "Mulheres Portuguesas e Feminismo." Análise Social [special number on Portuguese Women and Feminism] 22 (1986): 92-93.■ Osório, Ana de Castro. As Mulheres Portuguesas. Lisbon, 1905.■ Sadlier, Darlene J. The Question of How: Women Writers and New Portuguese Literature. Westport, Conn.: Greenwood; Contributions in Women's Studies, no. 109, 1989.■ Silva, Manuela. The Employment of Women in Portugal. Luxembourg: Office for Official Publications, European Communities, 1984. Velho da Costa, Maria. Maina Mendes. Lisbon, 1974.■ Vicente, Ana, and Maria Reynolds de Souza. Family Planning in Portugal. Lisbon, 1984.■ Almeida, Fortunato de. História da Igreja em Portugal. 6 vols. Coimbra, 1910-24, and Oporto, 1967-72. Alonso, Joaquim Maria. The Secret of Fátima: Fact and Legend. Cambridge, Mass.: Ravengate Press, 1979. Alves, José da Felicidade, ed. Católicos e política de Humberto Delgado à Marcelo Caetano. Lisbon, 1969. Araújo, Miguel de, ed. Dicionario político; 1; Os Bispos e a revoluçao de Abril. Lisbon, 1976. Bishko, Charles Julian. Spanish and Portuguese Monastic History 600-1300. London, Variorum Reprints, 1984.■ Blanshard, Paul. Freedom and Catholic Power in Spain and Portugal. Boston: Beacon Press, 1962.■ Boxer, C. R. The Church Militant and Iberian Expansion 1440-1770. Baltimore, Md.: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1978. Bruneau, Thomas C. "Church and State in Portugal: Crises of Cross and Sword." Journal of Church and State XVIII (1976): 463-90. Freire, José Geraldes. Resistência Católico ao Salazarismo-Marcelismo. Oporto, 1976.■ Herculano, Alexandre. History of the Origin and Establishment of the Inquisition in Portugal. John C. Banner, trans. Stanford, Calif.: Stanford University Press, 1962.■ IPOPE. Estudo sobre liberdade e religião em Portugal. Lisbon, 1973. Johnston, Francis. Fátima: The Great Sign. Chulmleigh, U.K.: Augustine Publications, 1980.■ Kondor, Fr. Louis. Fátima in Lucia's Own Words: Sister Lucia's Memoirs. Fatima: Postulation Center, 1976. Lourenço, Joaquim Maria. Situação jurídica da Igreja em Portugal. Coimbra, 1943.■ Mattoso, José. Religião e Cultura na Idade Média Portuguesa. Lisbon, 1982. Miller, Samuel J. Portugal and Rome c. 1748-1830: An Aspect of Catholic Enlightenment. Rome: Universita Gregoriana Editrice, 1978. O'Malley, John W. The First Jesuits. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1993.■ Pattee, Richard. Portugal and the Portuguese World. Milwaukee, Wisc.: Bruce, 1957.■ Prestage, Edgar. Portugal: A Pioneer of Christianity. Lisbon, 1945.■ Richard, Robert. Etudes sur l'histoire morale et religieuse de Portugal. Paris: Centro Cultural de Gulbenkian, 1970.■ Robinson, Richard A. H. "The Religious Question and Catholic Revival in Portugal, 1900-1930." Journal of Contemporary History XII (1977): 345-62.■. Contemporary Portugal: A History. London: Allen & Unwin, 1979.■ Rodrigues, R. P. Francisco. História da Companhia de Jesus na Assistência de Portugal, 7 vols. Lisbon, 1931-50.■ Roth, Cecil. A History of the Marranos. Philadelphia: Jewish Publication Society of America, 1932.■ Agriculture, Viticulture, and Fishing■ Abreu-Ferreira, Darlene. "The Portuguese in Newfoundland: Documentary Evidence Examined." Portuguese Studies Review 4, 1 (1995-96): 11-33.■ Allen, H. Warner. The Wines of Portugal. London: Michael Joseph, 1963.■ Barros, Afonso de. A reforma agrária em Portugal. Oeiras, 1979.■ Beamish, Huldine V. The Hills of Alentejo. London: Geoffrey Bles, 1958.■ Bennett, Norman R. "The Golden Age of the Port Wine System, 1781-1807." The International History Review XII (1990): 221-18.■ Black, Richard. "The Myth of Subsistence: Market Production in the Small Farm Sector of Northern Portugal." Iberian Studies 1, 8 (1989): 25-41.■ Bravo, Pedro, and Duarte de Oliveira. Viticulture Moderna. Lisbon, 1974.■. Vinhas e Vinhos De Portugal. Lisbon, 1979.■ Cabral, Manuel V. "Agrarian Structures and Recent Movements in Portugal." Journal of Peasant Studies 4, 5 (July 1978): 411-45.■ Cardoso, José Carvalho. A Agricultura Portuguesa. Lisbon, 1973.■ Carvalho, Bento de. Guía Dos Vinhos Portugueses. Lisbon, 1982.■ Clarke, Robert. Open Boat Whaling in the Azores: The History and Present Methods of a Relic Industry. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1954.■ Cockburn, Ernest. Port Wine and Oporto. London: Wine & Spirit, 1949. Cole, S. C. "Cod, Cod Country and Family: The Portuguese Newfoundland Fishery." Mast 3, 1 (1990): 1-29.■ Coull, James. The Fisheries of Europe. London: G. Bell & Sons, 1972.■ Croft-Cooke, Rupert. Port. London: Putnam, 1957.■. Madeira. London: Putnam, 1961.■ Delaforce, John. The Factory House at Oporto. London: Christie's Wine Publications, 1979 and later eds.■ Doel, Patricia A. Port O'Call: Memories of the Portuguese White Fleet in St. John's Newfoundland. St. John's, Newfoundland: ISER, 1992.■ Fletcher, Wyndham. Port: An Introduction to Its History and Delights. London: Bernet, 1978.■ Francis, A. D. The Wine Trade. London: Adam and Charles Black, 1972.■ Freitas, Eduardo, João Ferreira de Almeida, and Manuel Villaverde Cabral. Modalidades de penetração do capitalismo na agricultura: estruturas agrárias em Portugal Continental, 1950-1970. Lisbon, 1976.■ Gonçalves, Francisco Esteves. Portugal: A Wine Country. Lisbon, 1984.■ Gulbenkian Foundation. Agrarian Reform. Lisbon, 1981.■ Kurlansky, Mark. Cod: A Biography of the Fish That Changed the World. New York: Walker, 1997.■ Malefakis, Edward. "Two Iberian Land Reforms Compared: Spain, 1931-1936 and Portugal, 1974—1978." In Gulbenkian Foundation, Agrarian Reform. Lisbon, 1981.■ Moutinho, M. História da pesca do bacalhau. Lisbon: Imprensa Universitária, 1985.■ Oliveira Marques, A. H. de. lntrodução a história da agricultura em Portugal.■ Lisbon, 1968. Pato, Octávio. O Vinho. Lisbon, 1971.■ Pearson, Scott R. Portuguese Agriculture in Transition. Ithaca, N.Y.: Cornell University Press, 1987.■ Postgate, Raymond. Portuguese Wine. London: Dent, 1969.■ Read, Jan. The Wines of Portugal. London: Faber & Faber, 1982.■ Robertson, George. Port. London: Faber & Faber, 1982 ed.■ Rutledge, Ian. "Land Reform and the Portuguese Revolution." Journal of Peasant Studies 5, 1 (Oct. 1977): 79-97.■ Sanceau, Elaine. The British Factory at Oporto. Oporto, 1970.■ Simon, Andre L. Port. London: Constable, 1934.■ Simões, J. Os grandes trabalhadores do Mar: Reportagens na Terra Nova e na Groenlândia. Lisbon: Gazeta dos Caminho de Ferro, 1942.■ Smith, Diana. Portugal and the Challenge of 1992: Special Report. New York: Camões Center/RIIC, Columbia University, 1990.■ Stanislawski, Dan. Landscapes of Bacchus: The Vine in Portugal. Austin: University of Texas Press, 1970.■ Teixeira, Carlos, and Victor M. Pereira da Rosa, eds. The Portuguese in Canada: From the Seat to the City. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 2000.■ Unwin, Tim. "Farmers' Perceptions of Agrarian Change in Northwest Portugal." Journal of Rural Studies 1, 4 (1985): 339-57.■ Valadão do Valle, E. Bacalhau: tradições históricas e económicos. Lisbon, 1991.■ Venables, Bernard. Baleia! The Whalers of Azores. London: Bodley Head, 1968.■ Villiers, Alan. The Quest of the Schooner Argus: A Voyage to the Banks and Greenland. New York: Scribners, 1951. World Bank. Portugal: Agricultural Survey. Washington, D.C.: World Bank, 1978.■ ECONOMY, INDUSTRY, AND DEVELOPMENT■ Aiyer, Srivain, and Shahid A. Chandry. Portugal and the E.E.C.: Employment and Implications. Lisbon, 1979.■ Baklanoff, Eric N. The Economic Transformation of Spain and Portugal. New York: Praeger, 1978.■. "Changing Systems: The Portuguese Revolution and the Public Enterprise Sector." ACES ( Association of Comparative Economic Studies) Bulletin 26 (Summer-Fall 1984): 63-76.■. "Portugal's Political Economy: Old and New." In K. Maxwell and M. Haltzel, eds., Portugal: Ancient Country, Young Democracy, 37-59. Washington, D.C.: Wilson Center Press, 1990.■ Barbosa, Manuel P. Growth, Migration and the Balance of Payments in a Small, Open Economy. New York: Garland, 1984.■ Braga de Macedo, Jorge, and Simon Serfaty, eds. Portugal since the Revolution: Economic and Political Perspectives. Boulder, Colo.: Westview, 1981.■ Carvalho, Camilo, et al. Sabotagem Econômica: " Dossier" Banco Espírito Santo e Comercial de Lisboa. Lisbon, 1975.■ Corkill, David. The Development of the Portuguese Economy: A Case of Euro-peanization. London: Routledge, 1999.■ Cravinho, João. "The Portuguese Economy: Constraints and Opportunities." In K. Maxwell, ed., Portugal in the 1980s, 111-65. Westport, Conn.: Greenwood, 1986.■ Dornsbusch, Rudiger, Richard S. Eckhaus, and Lane Taylor. "Analysis and Projection of Macroeconomic Conditions in Portugal." In L. S. Graham and H. M. Makler, eds., Contemporary Portugal, 299-330. Austin: University of Texas Press, 1979.■ The Economist (London). "On the Edge of Europe: A Survey of Portugal." (June 30, 1981): 3-27.■. "Coming Home: A Survey of Portugal." (May 28, 1988).■. 'The New Iberia: Not Quite Kissing Cousins" [Spain and Portugal]. (May 5, 1990): 21-24.■ Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian and German Marshall Fund of the U.S., eds. II Conferência Internacional sobre e Economia Portuguesa, 2 vols. Lisbon, 1979.■ Hudson, Mark. Portugal to 1993: Investing in a European Future. London: The Economist Intelligence Unit/Special Report No. 11 57/EIU Economic Prospects Series, 1989.■ International Labour Office (ILO). Employment and Basic Needs in Portugal. Geneva: ILO, 1979.■ Kavalsky, Basil, and Surendra Agarwal. Portugal: Current and Prospective Economic Trends. Washington, D.C.: World Bank, 1978.■ Krugman, Paul, and Jorge Braga de Macedo. "The Economic Consequences of the April 25th Revolution." Economia III (1979): 455-83.■ Lewis, John R., and Alan M. Williams. "The Sines Project: Portugal's Growth Centre or White Elephant?" Town Planning Review 56, 3 (1985): 339-66.■ Makler, Harry M. "The Consequences of the Survival and Revival of the Industrial Bourgeoisie." In L. S. Graham and D. L. Wheeler, eds., In Search of Modern Portugal, 251-83. Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 1983.■ Marques, A. La Politique Economique Portugaise dans la Période de la Dictature ( 1926-1974). Doctoral thesis, 3rd cycle, University of Grenoble, France, 1980.■ Martins, B. Sociedades e grupos em Portugal. Lisbon, 1973.■ Mata, Eugenia, and Nuno Valério. História Econômica De Portugal: Uma Perspectiva Global. Lisbon: Edit. Presença, 1994. Murteira, Mário. "The Present Economic Situation: Its Origins and Prospects." In L. S. Graham and H. M. Makler, eds., Contemporary Portugal, 331-42. Austin: University of Texas Press, 1979. OCED. Economic Survey: Portugal: 1988. Paris: OCED, 1988 [see also this series since 1978].■ Pasquier, Albert. L'Economie du Portugal: Données et Problémes de Son Expansion. Paris: Librarie Generale de Droit, 1961. Pereira da Moura, Francisco. Para onde vai e economia portuguesa? Lisbon, 1973.■ Pintado, V. Xavier. Structure and Growth of the Portuguese Economy. Geneva: EFTA, 1964.■ Pitta e Cunha, Paulo. "Portugal and the European Economic Community." In L. S. Graham and D. L. Wheeler, eds., In Search of Modern Portugal, 321-38. Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 1983.■. "The Portuguese Economic System and Accession to the European Community." In E. Sousa Ferreira and W. C. Opello, Jr., eds., Conflict and Change in Portugal, 1974-1984, 281-300. Lisbon, 1985. Porto, Manuel. "Portugal: Twenty Years of Change." In Alan Williams, ed., Southern Europe Transformed, 84-112. London: Harper & Row, 1984. Quarterly Economic Review. London: The Economist Intelligence Unit, 1974-present.■ Salgado de Matos, Luís. Investimentos Estrangeiros em Portugal. Lisbon, 1973 and later eds.■ Schmitt, Hans O. Economic Stabilisation and Growth in Portugal. Washington, D.C.: International Monetary Fund, 1981.■ Smith, Diana. Portugal and the Challenge of 1992. New York: Camões Center, RIIC, Columbia University, 1989.■ Tillotson, John. The Portuguese Bank Note Case [ 1920s]: Legal, Economic and Financial Approaches to the Measure of Damages in Contract. Manchester, U.K.: Faculty of Law, University of Manchester, 1992.■ Tovias, Alfred. Foreign Economic Relations of the Economic Community: The Impact of Spain and Portugal. Boulder, Colo.: Rienner, 1990.■ Valério, Nuno. A moeda em Portugal, 1913-1947. Lisbon: Sá da Costa, 1984.■. As Finanças Públicas Portuguesas Entre As Duas Guerras Mundiais. Lisbon: Cosmos, 1994.■ World Bank. Portugal: Current and Prospective Economic Trends. Washington, D.C.: World Bank, 1978 and to the present.■ PHOTOGRAPHY ON PORTUGAL■ Alves, Afonso Manuel, Antônio Sacchetti, and Moura Machado. Lisboa. Lisbon, 1991.■ Antunes, José. Lisboa do nosso olhar; A look on Lisbon. Lisbon: Câmara Municipal de Lisboa, 1991. Beaton, Cecil. Near East. London: Batsford, 1943.■. Lisboa 1942: Cecil Beaton, Lisbon 1942. Lisbon: British Historical Society of Portugal/Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian, 1995.■ Bottineau, Yves. Portugal. London: Thames & Hudson, 1957.■ Câmara Municipal de Lisboa. 7 Olhares ( Seven Viewpoints). Lisbon: Câmara Municipal de Lisboa, 1998.■ Capital, A. Lisboa: Imagens d'A Capital. Lisbon: Edit. Notícias, 1984.■ Dias, Marina Tavares. Photographias de Lisboa, 1900 ( Photographs of Lisbon, 1900). Lisbon: Quimera, 1991.■. Os melhores postais antigos de Lisboa ( The best old postcards of Lisbon). Lisbon: Químera, 1995.■ Finlayson, Graham, and Frank Tuohy. Portugal. London: Thames & Hudson, 1970.■ Glassner, Helga. Portugal. Berlin-Zurich: Atlantis-Verlag, 1942. Hopkinson, Amanda, ed. Reflections by Ten Portuguese photographers. Bark-way, U.K.: Frontline/Portugal 600, 1996.■ Lima, Luís Leiria, and Isabel Salema. Lisboa de Pedra e Bronze. Lisbon, 1990.■ Martins, Miguel Gomes. Lisboa ribeirinha ( Riverside Lisbon). Lisbon: Arquivo Municipal, Câmara Municipal de Lisboa, Livros Horizonte, 1994. Vieira, Alice. Esta Lisboa ( This Lisbon). Lisbon: Caminho, 1994. Wohl, Hellmut, and Alice Wohl. Portugal. London: Frederick Muller, 1983.■ EQUESTRIANISM■ Andrade, Manoel Carlos de, Luz da Liberal e Nobre Arte da Cavallaria. Lisbon, 1790.■ Graciosa, Filipe. Escola Portuguesa de Arte Equestre. Lisbon, 2004.■ Horsetalk Magazine. Published in New Zealand.■ Oliveira, Nuno. Reflections on the Equestrian Art. London, 2000.■ Russell, Eleanor, ed. The Truth in the Teaching of Nuno Oliveira. Stanhope,■ Queensland, Australia, 2003. Vilaca, Luis V., and Pedro Yglesias d'Oliveira, eds. LUSITANO. Coudelarias De Portugal. O Cavalo ancestral do Sudoeste da Europa. Lisbon: ICONOM, 2005.■ Websites of interest: www.equestrian.pt portugalweb.comHistorical dictionary of Portugal > CULTURE, LITERATURE, AND LANGUAGE
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8 Highs, Thomas
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. 1760s England[br]English reedmaker who claimed to have invented both the spinning jenny and the waterframe.[br]The claims of Highs to have invented both the spinning jenny and the waterframe have been dismissed by most historians. Thomas Highs was a reedmaker of Leigh, Lancashire. In about 1763 he had as a neighbour John Kay, the clockmaker from Warrington, whom he employed to help him construct his machines. During this period they were engaged in making a spinning jenny, but after several months of toil, in a fit of despondency, they threw the machine through the attic window. Highs persevered, however, and made a jenny that could spin six threads. The comparatively sophisticated arrangements for drawing and twisting at the same time, as depicted by Guest (1823), suggest that this machine came after the one invented by James Hargreaves. Guest claims that Highs made this machine between 1764 and 1766 and in the following two years constructed another, in which the spindles were placed in a circle. In 1771 Highs moved to Manchester, where he constructed a double jenny that was displayed at the Manchester Exchange, and received a subscription of £200 from the cotton manufacturers. However, all this occurred after Hargreaves had constructed his jenny. In the trial of Arkwright's patent during 1781, Highs gave evidence. He was recalled from Ireland, where he had been superintending the building of cotton-spinning machinery for Baron Hamilton's newly erected mill at Balbriggan, north of Dublin. Then in 1785, during the next trial of Arkwright's patent, Highs claimed that in 1767 he had made rollers for drawing out the cotton before spinning. This would have been for a different type of spinning machine, similar to the one later constructed by Arkwright. Highs was helped by John Kay and it was these rollers that Kay subsequently built for Arkwright. If the drawing shown by Guest is correct, then Highs was working on the wrong principles because his rollers were spaced too far apart and were not held together by weights, with the result that the twist would have passed into the drafting zone, producing uneven drawing.[br]Further ReadingR.Guest, 1823, A Compendious History of the Cotton-Manufacture: With a Disproval of the Claim of Sir Richard Arkwright to the Invention of its Ingenious Machinery, Manchester (Highs's claim for the invention of his spinning machines).R.S.Fitton, 1989, The Arkwrights, Spinners of Fortune, Manchester (an examination of Highs's claims).R.L.Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester (discusses the technical problems of the invention).RLH -
9 Jacquard, Joseph-Marie
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. 7 July 1752 Lyons, Franced. 7 August 1834 Oullines, France[br]French developer of the apparatus named after him and used for selecting complicated patterns in weaving.[br]Jacquard was apprenticed at the age of 12 to bookbinding, and later to type-founding and cutlery. His parents, who had some connection with weaving, left him a small property upon their death. He made some experiments with pattern weaving, but lost all his inheritance; after marrying, he returned to type-founding and cutlery. In 1790 he formed the idea for his machine, but it was forgotten amidst the excitement of the French Revolution, in which he fought for the Revolutionists at the defence of Lyons. The machine he completed in 1801 combined earlier inventions and was for weaving net. He was sent to Paris to demonstrate it at the National Exposition and received a bronze medal. In 1804 Napoleon granted him a patent, a pension of 1,500 francs and a premium on each machine sold. This enabled him to study and work at the Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers to perfect his mechanism for pattern weaving. A method of selecting any combination of leashes at each shoot of the weft had to be developed, and Jacquard's mechanism was the outcome of various previous inventions. By taking the cards invented by Falcon in 1728 that were punched with holes like the paper of Bouchon in 1725, to select the needles for each pick, and by placing the apparatus above the loom where Vaucanson had put his mechanism, Jacquard combined the best features of earlier inventions. He was not entirely successful because his invention failed in the way it pressed the card against the needles; later modifications by Breton in 1815 and Skola in 1819 were needed before it functioned reliably. However, the advantage of Jacquard's machine was that each pick could be selected much more quickly than on the earlier draw looms, which meant that John Kay's flying shuttle could be introduced on fine pattern looms because the weaver no longer had to wait for the drawboy to sort out the leashes for the next pick. Robert Kay's drop box could also be used with different coloured wefts. The drawboy could be dispensed with because the foot-pedal operating the Jacquard mechanism could be worked by the weaver. Patterns could be changed quickly by replacing one set of cards with another, but the scope of the pattern was more limited than with the draw loom. Some machines that were brought into use aroused bitter hostility. Jacquard suffered physical violence, barely escaping with his life, and his machines were burnt by weavers at Lyons. However, by 1812 his mechanism began to be generally accepted and had been applied to 11,000 draw-looms in France. In 1819 Jacquard received a gold medal and a Cross of Honour for his invention. His machines reached England c.1816 and still remain the basic way of weaving complicated patterns.[br]Principal Honours and DistinctionsFrench Cross of Honour 1819. National Exposition Bronze Medal 1801.Further ReadingA.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London.C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History of Technology, Vol. IV, Oxford: Clarendon Press.R.L.Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester (covers the introduction of pattern weaving and the power loom).RLH -
10 Skola
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. c. 1819 France[br]French improver of the Jacquard mechanism for pattern weaving.[br]Jacquard hand looms surviving from the 1830s show a mechanism similar to those still used in the 1990s, with all the operations being carried out by the weaver: the flying shuttle, invented by John Kay, is driven across with the right hand, while the left hand rests on the sley and beats in the weft and also selects the appropriate shuttle from Robert Kay's drop box. The right foot presses down on a pedal which operates the Jacquard mechanism. The single downwards movement of the foot has to be translated into two different motions to operate the Jacquard. First, the correct card has to be moved horizontally against the needles to select the desired pattern, then the appropriate needles have to be lifted vertically. Jacquard's invention failed in the way it pressed the card against the needles, but Skola was able to improve this in 1819, probably with the addition of a part called the "swan neck". It was Skola's Jacquard machine which truly rendered the process of weaving more economical and productive because the weaver now could operate the Jacquard mechanism with no help, so dispensing with the drawboy. The speed of selecting the pattern with this mechanism also meant that the weaver could use the flying shuttle, with an additional increment in weaving speeds.[br]Further ReadingR.L.Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester (includes a description of the development of the Jacquard mechanism).A.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London (for illustrations of the perfected mechanism).RLH -
11 Arkwright, Sir Richard
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. 23 December 1732 Preston, Englandd. 3 August 1792 Cromford, England[br]English inventor of a machine for spinning cotton.[br]Arkwright was the youngest of thirteen children and was apprenticed to a barber; when he was about 18, he followed this trade in Bol ton. In 1755 he married Patients Holt, who bore him a son before she died, and he remarried in 1761, to Margaret Biggins. He prospered until he took a public house as well as his barber shop and began to lose money. After this failure, he travelled around buying women's hair for wigs.In the late 1760s he began spinning experiments at Preston. It is not clear how much Arkwright copied earlier inventions or was helped by Thomas Highs and John Kay but in 1768 he left Preston for Nottingham, where, with John Smalley and David Thornley as partners, he took out his first patent. They set up a mill worked by a horse where machine-spun yarn was produced successfully. The essential part of this process lay in drawing out the cotton by rollers before it was twisted by a flyer and wound onto the bobbin. The partners' resources were not sufficient for developing their patent so Arkwright found new partners in Samuel Need and Jedediah Strutt, hosiers of Nottingham and Derby. Much experiment was necessary before they produced satisfactory yarn, and in 1771 a water-driven mill was built at Cromford, where the spinning process was perfected (hence the name "waterframe" was given to his spinning machine); some of this first yarn was used in the hosiery trade. Sales of all-cotton cloth were initially limited because of the high tax on calicoes, but the tax was lowered in 1774 by Act of Parliament, marking the beginning of the phenomenal growth of the cotton industry. In the evidence for this Act, Arkwright claimed that he had spent £12,000 on his machine. Once Arkwright had solved the problem of mechanical spinning, a bottleneck in the preliminary stages would have formed but for another patent taken out in 1775. This covered all preparatory processing, including some ideas not invented by Arkwright, with the result that it was disputed in 1783 and finally annulled in 1785. It contained the "crank and comb" for removing the cotton web off carding engines which was developed at Cromford and solved the difficulty in carding. By this patent, Arkwright had mechanized all the preparatory and spinning processes, and he began to establish water-powered cotton mills even as far away as Scotland. His success encouraged many others to copy him, so he had great difficulty in enforcing his patent Need died in 1781 and the partnership with Strutt ended soon after. Arkwright became very rich and financed other spinning ventures beyond his immediate control, such as that with Samuel Oldknow. It was estimated that 30,000 people were employed in 1785 in establishments using Arkwright's patents. In 1786 he received a knighthood for delivering an address of thanks when an attempt to assassinate George III failed, and the following year he became High Sheriff of Derbyshire. He purchased the manor of Cromford, where he died in 1792.[br]Principal Honours and DistinctionsKnighted 1786.Bibliography1769, British patent no. 931.1775, British patent no. 1,111.Further ReadingR.S.Fitton, 1989, The Arkwrights, Spinners of Fortune, Manchester (a thorough scholarly work which is likely to remain unchallenged for many years).R.L.Hills, 1973, Richard Arkwright and Cotton Spinning, London (written for use in schools and concentrates on Arkwright's technical achievements).R.S.Fitton and A.P.Wadsworth, 1958, The Strutts and the Arkwrights, Manchester (concentrates on the work of Arkwright and Strutt).A.P.Wadsworth and J.de L.Mann, 1931, The Cotton Trade and Industrial Lancashire, Manchester (covers the period leading up to the Industrial Revolution).F.Nasmith, 1932, "Richard Arkwright", Transactions of the Newcomen Society 13 (looks at the actual spinning invention).R.L.Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester (discusses the technical problems of Arkwright's invention).RLH -
12 Gartside
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. 1760s England[br]English manufacturer who set up what was probably the first power-driven weaving shed.[br]A loom on which more than one ribbon could be woven at once may have been invented by Anton Möller at Danzig in 1586. It arrived in England from the Low Countries and was being used in London by 1616 and in Lancashire by 1680. Means were being devised in Switzerland c.1730 for driving these looms by power, but this was prohibited because it was feared that these looms would deprive other weavers of work. In England, a patent was taken out by John Kay of Bury and John Stell of Keighley in 1745 for improvements to these looms and it is probably that Gartside received permission to use this invention. In Manchester, Gartside set up a mill with swivel looms driven by a water-wheel; this was probably prior to 1758, because a man was brought up at the Lancaster Assizes in March of that year for threatening to burn down "the Engine House of Mr. Gartside in Manchester, Merchant". He set up his factory near Garrett Hall on the south side of Manchester and it may still have been running in 1764. However, the enterprise failed because it was necessary for each loom to be attended by one person in order to prevent any mishap occurring, and therefore it was more economic to use hand-frames, which the operatives could control more easily.[br]Further ReadingJ.Aikin, 1795, A Description of the Country from Thirty to Forty Miles Round Manchester, London (provides the best account of Gartside's factory).Both R.L.Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester; and A.P.Wadsworth and J. de L.Mann, 1931, The Cotton Trade and Industrial Lancashire, Manchester, make use of Aikin's material as they describe the development of weaving.A.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London (covers the development of narrow fabric weaving).RLH -
13 Drop Box (Shuttle-Box Motion)
Several shuttle-boxes placed at one or both ends of a loom, which are mechanically moved as required to enable different colours or counts of weft to be used. John Kay's son, Robert,'invented the first drop box in 1760 (see Box Motions)Dictionary of the English textile terms > Drop Box (Shuttle-Box Motion)
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14 Fly Shuttle
The name given to the method of operating the shuttle invented by John Kay in 1733 -
15 bukod
Active Verb: bumukodPassive Verb: ibukodEnglish Definition: 1) to separate from -- BUMUKOD (verb) 2) to set apart -- MAGBUKOD, IBUKOD 3) besides, in addition to (conj)Examples: 1) Bumukod na siya sa amin. (He separated from us.) 2) Ibukod mo ang para kay Jose. (Set aside what is for John.) 3) Kasama rin niya ang kanyang mga anak bukod sa kanyang asawa. (His child was with him in addition to his wife.) -
16 Möller, Anton
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. c. 1580 Danzig, Poland[br]Polish may have been involved with the invention of the ribbon loom.[br]Around 1586, Anton Möller related that he saw in Danzig a loom on which four to six pieces of ribbon could be woven at once. Some accounts say he may have invented this loom, which required no skill to use beyond the working of a bar. The city council was afraid that a great many workers might be reduced to begging because of this invention, so they had it suppressed and the inventor strangled or drowned. It seems to have been in use in London c. 1616 and at Leiden in Holland by 1620, but its spread was handicapped both by popular rioting and by restrictive legislation. By 1621 the capacity of the loom had been increased to twenty-four ribbons, and it was later increased to fifty. It made its appearance in Lancashire around 1680 and the way the shuttles were operated could have given John Kay the inspiration for his flying shuttle.[br]Further ReadingA.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London (includes a good description and illustration of the invention).T.K.Deny and T.I.Williams, 1960, A Short History of Technology from the Earliest Timesto AD 1900, Oxford; C.Singer (ed.), 1957, A History of Technology, Vol. III, Oxford: Clarendon Press (both provide brief accounts of the introduction of the ribbon loom).RLH
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